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Walking into Mediterraneo Caffe on Federal Hill, diners are greeted with qualities of the most high-end Italian restaurants: a warm atmosphere, an array of wine bottles and pictures of Italy displayed around the room. On the walls are photographs of the impressive number of celebrities who have visited the restaurant — including Steven Tyler, Danny DeVito and Alec Baldwin.

The setting implies both quality fare and high prices, but only the latter holds true.

The dinner menu features numerous options for those willing to spend $20 to $35. But for the many who are not, options remain limited. Lunch items are also relatively expensive for a midday meal, running from $16 to $18.

For those who prefer to dine on a budget, the lunch prix fixe menu — offering patrons a choice of salad, entree and dessert for only $14.95 — is recommended. The menu has an extensive number of choices, including three salad options, 17 entrees and four desserts.

The caprese salad was refreshing and visually appealing, starring fresh mozzarella and tomatoes of a quality difficult to find this time of year, while the caesar salad was simple and classic.

The entree list highlights fish, chicken and pasta options. For a more classic Italian meal, there is fusilli alla vodka. Though the vodka sauce is light and delicate without overpowering flavors, the pasta was surprisingly undercooked for a restaurant of this reputation. While the menu listed pancetta as a main ingredient, pieces of the Italian bacon were cut so tiny they were barely noticeable. The entree, which was on the lower end of the price scale, led to the sense that either meals are significantly overpriced, or the restaurant saves its high quality cooking only for those willing to pay for it.

Dessert was the highlight of the meal. Options consisted of homemade tiramisu, lemon sorbet and chocolate or vanilla gelato. The tiramisu was extremely light with a strong espresso flavor — delicious enough to redeem the meal. In addition, the food was well portioned for lunch, neither overwhelming nor too small, and for those over 21, there is the option of free limoncello after dessert.

The restaurant is distinguished by its wall of glass doors facing out onto the street, allowing for people-watching as well as warm, fresh air in the summer. The view adds to the overall dining experience as patrons may observe the rich culture of Federal Hill during their meal.

The restaurant's service started out strong, but it declined a bit over the course of the meal. The food took some time to arrive, perhaps to be expected during the lunch rush. But where the service really faltered was in the delivery of the bill. The amount of time spent staring at an empty plate, longing for more tiramisu, was far greater than it should have been at such an upscale establishment.

Mediterraneo fits into that category of decent but overpriced Italian restaurants. While it is distinguished by its nice view and excellent desserts, the service and quality of entrees had serious flaws that diminished the overall quality of experience. If you are willing to pay, it will likely be a worthwhile experience. But for those who shy from a $30 meal, it may be better to try one of the other Italian restaurants gracing Federal Hill.

 


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