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Putting the beef in local produce

When I say "local," you say "produce," right?

Not so fast. While the Sustainable Food Initiative has been working with Louella Hill '04 and Brown Dining Services' Community Harvest to incorporate more local foods into dining hall menus, thus far, most of the triumphs have come in the form of apples and tomatoes in the fall, with other fruits and vegetables making brief appearances in the serving lines.

However, we wish to dispel the notion that "local foods" benefit mainly vegans and vegetarians. In fact, contrary to popular belief, the original aim of the Roots and Shoots line was not to create an herbivorous haven, but a place to showcase locally and sustainably grown foods. All you carnivores, take note: The day you'll sit down to a fresh, juicy, locally raised steak on your plate in the Ratty is not far off.

Why local, you ask? For starters, many small Rhode Island farms are unable to keep up with their corporate competition, forcing them to close up shop and sell their farms, oftentimes land that has been in their families for centuries, to maintain their livelihood. Brown has tremendous purchasing power and the potential ability to almost single-handedly keep these small farms in business. In doing so, the University would also help to prevent more open space from being bought and developed for residential and commercial use. Additionally, increasing local purchasing would keep more capital flow within the state as well as strengthen Brown's ties to rural Rhode Island.

Small family farms often practice more time-honored, sustainable animal-raising techniques than their large-scale factory counterparts, owned and managed by national corporations. Small farms raise animals with care, providing them with healthy diets and space to run outdoors, and do not use harmful growth hormones to increase production. Because the farms are so close, the products travel far fewer miles than those from large food distributors, where food travels from farm to processor to packager, only to spend more time on the shelf in freezers before preparation.

So why should you care? Ultimately, your meat and dairy will taste better. Anyone who has ever spent Thanksgiving with a Swanson microwaveable dinner knows the ill effects freezing can have on turkey. Reheating leaves the meat dry and much in need of salt and gravy to at least partially restore the flavor. In contrast, the shorter distances traveled by food coming from a closer regional location will reduce if not erase the necessity of freezing, which will enhance the flavor and eating pleasure. Less travel also diminishes the need for preservatives in foods, which will benefit taste as well as nutritional value. And anyone who pours Rhody Fresh milk on their Cheerios on Thursday mornings can attest to the fact that local simply tastes better.

In addition to the Rhody Fresh Thursday breakfasts which showcase milk and eggs from nearby Rhode Island farms, BuDS is seeking to expand the amount of local animal products on its menus. Consider the possibilities. Envision a list of potential menu items from local sources: free-range chicken, grass-fed beef, lamb burgers, venison, scallops, salmon, tuna, lobster, cheese, yogurt and ice cream. And though they probably won't make their debut on BuDS menus any time soon, there are also local breweries and vineyards which would happily provide you of-age folk with party-time libations.

Imagine setting your tray down at a table and realizing that every aspect of your meal is locally grown and produced. A burger of grass-fed beef with a slice of sharp cheddar on a roll from Seven Stars Bakery, a salad of fresh baby greens and tomatoes, a Hill Orchards' apple, a glass of Rhody Fresh milk and a bowl of fresh ice cream. And to think that's only dinner. In short, bringing more fresh local food into dining spaces across campus is an effort that is slowly but surely finding its legs, and would benefit immensely from increased student support. The possibility exists, but will only become a reality if enough desire is expressed to the powers that be, namely BuDS officials. (Think of this as a subliminal message instructing you to fill out as many suggestion slips as the day is long.) Vegetarians have spoken, and their efforts are yielding immense success.

Now it's up to you Burger Kings to have it your way.

Dana Berge '07 and Alex Penny '08 are fresh, Rhody Fresh.


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