For many students, Federal Hill is the elusive strip of pricey Italian restaurants reserved for dinners during Family Weekend. But there's another side to the neighborhood waiting to be explored — at just a short distance from the Dunkin Donuts Center and the Financial District, it is easy to see why Federal Hill has earned its reputation as "the Heartbeat of Providence."
Marking students' arrival to Federal Hill is a sculpture of La Pigna — the Pine Cone — that hangs from the center of the gateway arch to Atwells Avenue. The figurine is an Italian symbol of welcome, which aptly suits the neighborhood. In this informal Little Italy, visitors will find a hub of unique restaurants, shops and galleries unlike anywhere else in Providence.
During the daytime, Federal Hill has a relaxed atmosphere and offers a nice change of pace from crowded Thayer Street. People can stop to check out a local art gallery or grab a cannoli from one of the many traditional Italian bakeries. But on weekend nights, the streets burst into life. Lights draped from telephone poles illuminate the busy cobblestone streets. Visitors peruse Atwells Avenue with mouths watering as they gaze into the windows of the Italian restaurants that teem with business on Saturday nights. Among the many bars and night clubs, the Tammany Hall Pub and Parlor is particularly crowded with people lounging and sipping drinks at the bar.
A taste of Bologna on a budget
While Federal Hill is home to delicious yet expensive Italian eateries, it also caters to those on a college student's budget. More moderately priced restaurants are often overlooked among much-adored giants such as Al Forno or Siena. Nick's on Broadway, for example, is both affordable and inviting. The neighborhood diner is casual but trendy inside its brick facade. Though Nick's serves meals throughout the day, it is most popular for its weekend brunch, which induces serpentine lines of hungry customers. But those who wait will not be disappointed. Customers raved about the poached eggs, and a couple advised that the Mexican-inspired black bean and egg tortilla is a treat "not to be missed."
Broadway also houses Julian's, another eatery acclaimed for its brunch scene. The menu is eclectic and specializes in vegetarian and vegan dishes. Loyal customers attested to returning time after time to eat their ritual brunch at the hipster restaurant, adorned by red pleather-lined booths, funky chandeliers and interesting art.
Italian food brings a single word to mind — pizza. Caserta Pizza is a staple of Federal Hill that serves what one customer described as easily the best pizza in Rhode Island. The thick rectangular pizzas are loaded with fresh toppings, and customers raved about a spinach pie called a "Wimpy Skippy." The building is humble and nondescript, but the unfussy restaurant offers the most bang for your buck.
European fare on the fly
Costantino's Venda Ravioli is a much-loved Italian grocery store and deli, perfect for a quick and affordable meal. Inside the glass display cases, customers can choose from traditional Italian foods — they showcase a wide variety, including fresh cheeses, antipasto and gelato. It is hard to resist the aromas of homemade pastas and fresh sandwiches that circulate the room.
Pastiche Fine Desserts Cafe is another gem on the Hill. There is a distinct Parisian atmosphere inside this French patisserie, a tiny space nestled on a side street off of Atwells Avenue. It provides an intimate and cozy atmosphere where customers can end their weeknights with freshly baked desserts or sizzling cups of hot cocoa. But on weekend nights, Pastiche is the place to be — you will be lucky if you can get a seat.
Strokes of artistry
Federal Hill offers far more than Italian food and French desserts. Theaters and galleries endow the area with a rich, artistic culture. One notable absence remains, though — the historic Columbus Theater has remained closed since fire marshals shut it down for multiple violations in August 2009. The bright lights and facade of the building are reminiscent of the site of a flapper show during the roaring 1920s — the decade when the theater was built. The impressive architecture is still a feast for the eyes, but the owner has insufficient funds to restore the theater to the arthouse destination it once was.
Gallery 17 Peck and Chabot Gallery are two neighborhood favorites and both showcase contemporary art. Artists who have been featured in Gallery 17 have often gone on to have artwork displayed in America's most prominent museums. Chabot, set in the center of the Hill on Atwells Avenue, is bound to capture visitors' attention with its bright red awning. Vibrant, diverse paintings line the walls of the pristine gallery. Contemporary art exhibitions featuring sculptures and paintings rotate according to schedule.
It might not be New York City's renowned Little Italy, but with its authentic eateries, theaters and classic New England charm, Federal Hill is a neighborhood worth exploring.
