Despite its nickname, this year the Sharpe Refectory has made efforts to offer a wide array of diverse fare that is far from "ratty." In addition to menu restyling, the Ratty's interior has seen a makeover - complete with street signs, colorful artwork and a new, sleek look that belies its 53-year-old age.
"This place was built like a battleship," said Virginia Dunleavy, associate director of Brown Dining Services. "It was not meant for a lot of flexibility, but we really needed a renovation."
Serving approximately 4,000 students daily - and offering 1,500 pounds of tomatoes weekly - the Ratty now contains new features such as the "Creation Station" and "Accent Alley," which allow students to add a variety of spices to their meals. Sprinkle dispensers and panini grills also contribute to the do-it-yourself experience.
"We're trying especially hard to individualize the experience," Dunleavy said.
To boost morale and create a more elegant ambience, the kitchen was gutted, stainless steel walls replaced decrepit tiling and brighter lighting was installed on the ceiling.
"As glamorous as institutional dining may seem, it's not always the case," Dunleavy said. "It's hard for our staff to take pride in something when it's so old and neglected. We wanted to give something back to our staff."
In addition to refurbishing the building, the staff revised the menu. Currently, negotiations are under way to serve grass-fed beef and locally produced milk. All of the fish is shipped fresh from Rhode Island docks, and chicken comes primarily from nearby poultry farms. And in response to popular demand, in the near future grilled cheese sandwiches will be reinstated as a permanent fixture, though at first only at dinner. All of the desserts are prepared in the basement bakeshop by staff and students who work shifts that often run from 4 a.m. to 11 a.m.
Though administrators have said a full renovation of the Ratty is one of the University's long-term priorities, this year's changes followed an unprecedented barrage of student complaints and suggestions.
One of the key figures in the Ratty revolution is Food System Coordinator Louella Hill '04, who along with other administrators in Dining Services has crusaded to bring healthier food to Brown students.
"It's a matter of changing a system," said Hill, who spearheaded the new Sustainable Food Initiative campaign. "We're swimming upstream, but there's a lot of hope in this one, and it's a win-win situation."
The BuDS staff has raved about Hill's accomplishments in such a short period of time. "We sort of planted the garden, and Louella is becoming the water and sunshine," Dunleavy said. "We're expecting to grow."
Hill did her senior thesis on ways to implement sustainable food practices on the Brown campus, and after making a concerted effort to appeal to the interest of the administration, BuDS hired her this year to organize a program that incorporates locally grown food into the Brown dining experience. Hill played a key role in the development and realization of the Ratty's new "Roots and Shoots" line, which accommodates the needs of vegetarians and showcases the community harvesting program.
"There is a world of difference between a peach that comes from Chile and is ripened using artificial ripening chemicals and a Rhode Island peach that ripens on its way to Brown from a farm 20 miles away," said Hill, who explained that the majority of produce served at the Ratty is grown in California and other distant places. "We allow pesticides and petrochemicals to be used because we can't see what goes on far away, but if we bring it home, we can be aware of what happens."
Hill and student volunteers take weekly trips to farms to pick fruits and vegetables as well as tour the facilities. By advocating for local farmers, she hopes to establish a symbiosis between small Rhode Island farmers and the Brown community. This program serves the dual purpose of providing more nutritious, fresher food for Brown students as well as fostering organic, environmentally sound practices.
To conserve food, this year all of BuDS' edible waste is donated to local pig farmers.
The impetus for Hill's interest in sustainable food was a catering experience when she was forced to throw away an enormous amount of salmon filets. "I thought to myself, 'If I love food so much, how is it that I can throw it away like it's totally worthless?'" she said. "So I started to take a broader interest in the way food is produced and distributed - aesthetics and nutrition. It's also an issue of social justice, and that's what I'm most passionate about."
Students have expressed overwhelming support for Hill's plans. "The issue of where our food comes from has ripened, and it's unavoidable," said Stella Klemperer '06, co-president of the Brown chapter of Oxfam, an outreach organization devoted to fighting global hunger and combating social injustice. "There is such inequity and lack of opportunity for small farmers."
Other student groups have formed to expand the forum of discussion for this burgeoning issue. "We're interested in eating locally grown, organic food that supports Rhode Island agriculture," said Marissa Margolies '07, a committed member of the Sustainable Food Initiative who is also attempting to start an organic farm at Brown.
However, some students, while in favor of Hill's initiatives, have responded negatively to the new developments in the Ratty. "It's not much of an improvement," said Jay Vowles '07. "The improvements are mostly superficial. Also, where is the noodle bar? I miss those noodles."
Others are satisfied with the changes. "I've been very pleased with the increase in local produce," said Cari Mailloux '07. "I love that I'm not only eating organically but also supporting local farmers."
Other students said they appreciate the increased variety. "I like having more vegetarian options even though I'm not vegetarian," said Emilee Trower '05.
Former UCS President Rahim Kurji '05 was heavily involved in implementing the changes. "It seems like students as a whole appreciate the work of Dining Services to make these ideas a reality," he said. "But this is only a precursor for more things to come."
BuDS Executive Chef John O'Shea said he is excited about the developments and has gotten positive feedback from students. "It's been long coming for many, many years, in my opinion," said O'Shea, who has worked for BuDS for 27 years. "In past years, we've seen our numbers (of students on meal plan) decline, and they're back up, which is a testament to our success."
However, he said budget constraints are a major impediment to future progress. "We could do so much more if the funding was there," he said. "We can't please everyone, but we try to please the masses as best we can. Even with all the variety, I don't think we've mastered it yet, but we're going in the right direction."
Hill said student input - in the form of both suggestions and complaints - is vital to continuing the Ratty's evolutionary process.
"I really need students to know that if they value eating foods that are grown in an environmentally and socially responsible way, they need to express support for that," she said. "If they want grass-fed beef, it could be here almost overnight, but they have to vocalize their interest."
