This past weekend was Family Weekend, and everyone knows what that means: fancy meals sponsored by your dad’s American Express. My brunch at Bellini Providence began with a short walk down College Hill. But after arriving, I felt like I had moved up in the world. The warm lights draw guests in, the gold accents adorn nearly every wall and when the waiters appear in their crisp white jackets, a sense of excitement fills the room. The hardwood floors give way into glossy beige marble, sweatshirts and hoodies morph into Barbour jackets and quarter-zips, English accents emerge and even the laughter sounds extravagant. I even caught a glimpse of Tobey Maguire waiting for his car by the entrance.
From the same family behind New York’s private members’ club and hotel Casa Cipriani, downtown Providence’s Bellini serves as a hideout for out-of-town parents who have had enough of Andrews Commons and Thayer Street’s booming car stereos. It would, after all, be a disaster if your designer fur coat met the marinara sauce from Antonio’s Pizza.
As the sole sit-down dining option in the Beatrice Hotel, Bellini comes with all the trappings of a luxury restaurant. It’s convenient for weary travelers: There’s a bar for every mid-afternoon cocktail whim, and since everything can be charged to the room, suddenly a $29 plate of pasta doesn’t seem so bad. People pay for convenience, and Bellini is a prime example of just how much one might spend for it.
If you are in the mood for a formal atmosphere, Bellini is an obvious choice. The service is consistent, the atmosphere refined and the experience practically made for an Instagram story. Every city and town needs a bougie restaurant like this for when family comes to town or a celebration is in order.
The dining room is small and tightly packed, reminiscent of a New York City bistro. At full capacity, it’s an elbow-to-elbow ordeal — fun, perhaps, if your professor or a dean happens to be seated beside you. Distinguishing it from most traditional restaurants, Bellini’s tables are circular, creating intimacy among dinner guests.
My two visits to Bellini have been wonderful, though that may have had less to do with the food and more to do with the company. The bread basket, however, deserves its own mention. The breadsticks and focaccia are dangerously addictive – the kind of thing you keep nibbling on long after the fifth “one more bite.”
For my appetizer, I was gently coerced into ordering something green — it was Family Weekend, and full “mom mode” was in effect. I wasn’t expecting much from the mixed greens salad ($18), but it pleasantly surprised me. The vegetables were fresh and the vinaigrette bright without flooding the composition with salt or lemon juice. I enjoyed this simple, well-made salad, or perhaps my body was simply rejoicing at finally receiving some fiber.
Next came the spaghetti “alle Vongole” ($29), which fell short of expectations after such a strong start to the meal. There was nothing particularly wrong with it, but the pasta was just a touch overcooked and lacked a pinch of salt. The clams were fresh, yet the starchy spaghetti muted their flavor. It could’ve done with a little more acidity to balance out the palate but as it stood, the dish felt uninspired — especially at that price point.
We finished off with the peach sorbet ($16), which wrapped up the meal in a nice little bow. It was a very expensive little bow, to be sure, but to my mom it was refreshing and not too sweet — high praise from any Chinese parent. The complimentary cookies with the coffee and tea were another thoughtful touch. I find that good service often leaves a strong impression, but I’m not sure if it was enough to balance out the mediocre food.
When it comes to cuisine, Bellini isn’t a great restaurant, but it does earn its place in Providence. It caters perfectly to its clientele, offers a polished setting for family visits and fulfills the fantasy of refinement. But if you’re after truly good food at a comfortable price point, look elsewhere.
Service: Attentive, considerate
Sound level: conversational
Recommended dishes: breadsticks, peach sorbet
Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9/10 p.m., Saturday - Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 8/10 p.m.
Price range: Appetizers $12-33, Entrees $23-52
Wheelchair accessibility: Yes, but cramped seating
★★.5/5
Op-Ed Contributor
