Many of the restaurants on Westminster Street, the slightly shi-shi culinary stretch of Providence’s downtown, feel the same: mid-century modern tables and chairs, warm lighting and an affluent clientele. Amaryllis offers the same trappings, but a few critical details set this globally-inspired and locally sourced restaurant apart.
The entire operation is contained in a single room, and bar stools wrap their way around a butcher-block counter separating the kitchen from the rest of the dining space. In another corner, a haloed portrait of Luigi Mangione, the man charged with murdering UnitedHealthcare CEO Brian Thompson, accents the aluminum washing sink and dishwasher. The space has been stacked with Tetris-like skill, and the seating teeters between cozy and cramped. With no music, dining is punctuated only by conversation and the sounds of a kitchen — metal on wood and the symphony of a stove. The menu whispers of the Mediterranean, weaving together flavors from Spain, Italy and Northern Africa and featuring locally sourced protein and produce.
To start, my dining partner and I ordered the beet carpaccio ($12). It was a riot of color: Tthe wine-red magenta of the beets was slick with green-gold olive oil and crowned with an unapologetic hunk of feta. Often earthy and forthcoming in flavor, the beets were surprisingly delicate, and the feta — simultaneously rich and sharp — was a most agreeable companion.
The pistachio mole mushrooms ($18) were a tangle of green fungi in a puddle of salsa macha, a Mexican condiment made of nuts and chili. The mushrooms were meaty and were complemented by the creamy and slightly acidic salsa. Both plates were refreshing and light, perfect for a warm evening.
The only disappointment was the main dish: braised local chicken thighs with harissa, roasted fennel and dates ($28). It arrived golden and piled on a marvelous blue plate, but it wasn’t hot in the slightest. The chicken was room temperature and slightly tough, as though the marinade had been neglected or forgotten. Creamy quartered potatoes were a welcome reprieve from the tough chicken and the chewy dates. Still, a few bites were delicious — corners of chicken that had absorbed more of the braise and bits of fennel caramelized in shmaltz.
For dessert, we enthusiastically opted for the blood orange olive oil cake with vanilla ice cream ($14), of course. Though the chicken was a disappointment, the cake was anything but that. The sponge was tender and warm, and it arrived dusted with powdered sugar, drizzled with olive oil and christened with rose petals. We did our best to savor each bite, but it disappeared quickly.
Dining at Amaryllis feels as though you have been invited into someone’s home kitchen. The plates are patterned and mismatched but clearly chosen with care. The stove peeks out from behind the bar, making you feel like a kid watching a parent cooking for you. Overall, you’ll find a blend of punchy ingredients and more delights than disappointments.
Service: considerate
Sound level: very conversational
Recommended dishes: beet carpaccio, blood orange olive oil cake
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Price Range: Appetizers $6-19, Entrees $26-42
★★★/5
