When you ask someone about their favorite restaurant in Providence, one name comes up a lot — Al Forno. Love it or hate it, it’s a Rhode Island institution — a husband-and-wife affair that began as a side project by two RISD-trained artists. Some say it made Providence a culinary hotspot when it opened in 1980. Forty six years later, a table at Al Forno is still a hot commodity.
All my meals at Al Forno start the same. It could be a 9 p.m. last-minute walk-in or a pre-planned celebratory dinner, but I always start things off with the grilled pizza. Whether it’s the simple pepperoni or the delicious sweet corn they offer in warmer months, it’s always a treat to share with the table.
It’s always loud, busy and exciting inside this two story brick warehouse building. There’s a bar area near the entrance, and multiple sectioned-off dining rooms within. For this meal we were seated by the windows, our table packed but comfortable.
This visit introduced me to a new seasonal pizza — mushrooms with cheese and scallions ($26), all atop their signature grilled pizza base. It’s always the simple things that pack the biggest punch, and at Al Forno, their signature pizza crust does just that. It’s charred on a wood-fire stove, creating the iconic grill marks and subtle smoky aroma that’s nothing short of intoxicating. Cut it up, grab the smallest edge of a crust and fold it up for the perfect addictingly chewy bite.
For me, pasta always comes next — the baked shells ($25) served in a ceramic casserole are boiling hot, loaded with melted cheese and perfect for larger groups. It’s heavy on the cream and slightly burnt on the top, but the slight sweetness of Al Forno’s pomodoro sauce balances it all out. My personal favorite, however, is their rigatoni bolognese ($26). I may be biased as a sucker for rigatoni, but I truly believe Al Forno has perfected this dish. The al dente pasta buries itself into that simple, hearty veal and pork sauce. I’m tempted to order rigatoni bolognese whenever I see it on any menu, but I am always disappointed by anything but the “original” at Al Forno.
The restaurant’s other heavy hitters include their dirty steak ($49) and clam roast ($36). Both come with large heapings of rustic mashed potatoes and are packed full of flavor. Again — simple, strong sauces done exceptionally well. The steak comes medium rare, soaking in a dark jus with a slight kick that pairs beautifully with the tender meat. While technically a “secret menu” item, it tends to come up as a daily special, a solid plate of protein to balance out the carbs. Then there’s the unexpected combination of spicy sausages and fresh New England clams, which never fails to impress. With bits of sauteed onions in the sauce, it’s punchy, fresh and perfect.
At another Italian restaurant, you might find dessert on a separate menu: some plain old vanilla ice cream, maybe a slice of chocolate cake. But at Al Forno, dessert is a main course in its own right, ordered ahead of time with the rest of your food — you’re left anticipating a wonderful sweet treat. The pies are absolutely to die for, made to order with seasonal toppings. I had the fig tart ($22) a la mode with an amazing banana chocolate chunk ice cream ($16), both house-made. A fork-full of soft pie crust, a dash of fig filling and a half scoop of ice cream to finish off what was an incredible meal. I’m always left wanting to stay a little longer — to forget about the rest of the day and simply enjoy the food at Al Forno. You ought to try it sometime, too.
Service: Friendly
Sound level: Loud, Conversational
Recommended dishes: Grilled Pizza, Rigatoni Bolognese, Pies
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday and Monday Closed
Price range: Appetizers $14–25, Entrees $24–50, Desserts $10-22 (sharing)
Wheelchair accessibility: Yes
★★★★★/5
